Posts
The weekend started very well. I did laundry on Saturday morning and fortunately had some help from a friendly neighbour who showed me how to do laundry by hand in a way that actually cleans your clothes. I have done laundry by hand for an entire summer when I was in India but my clothes never became truly clean. After some quick tips on washing techniques and the right tools, I was set to go. After washing the whites twice and rising, I was very happy to discover that they were perfectly white! It reminded me of all those TV ads that compare the brand being marketed to a competitor and the one they promote is obviously white and the other still a bit brown. Quite an amazing experience. However, there is one caveat. Since I wasn't used to the intense rubbing that is a key part of the getting clothes clean formula, I had a few sore spots on my fingers now where the skin has just been agitated and it burns quite a bit. After this, I decided to visit my host mother Tina in Sakaa to give her the yams I had brought from Tamale and to see the children. It was a bit of an adventure to find the place because I did not know exactly where the village was located but I just went for it and eventually found my way. It was a very enjoyable afternoon spent sitting under the sun shade, talking, enjoying some of her food, fetching water with the children and showing some pictures I had brought with me from Canada. I was very sad to go home actually and when I drove away, it felt like I was leaving home.
I also want to write about another interesting observation I had when I was there. During the time of my village stay I did not have a Moto and I did not even know how to get back to Paga on my own. I felt as if I was in a sort of microcosm where Paga, EWB, and especially Canada was infinitely far away. However, when I returned that weekend, I made that connection between Paga and Sakaa and it put Sakaa in relation to the larger picture. However, it also made it easy to forget that in Sakaa, you only see a Moto maybe once a day and never any cars and that when sun sets, there is no light and no electricity.
Returning back to Paga, I went to church the next day. It was Palm Sunday and I went to the local Catholic Church with a friend from work. After a procession that involved a lot of singing and dancing, we arrived at the church and the mass began. Fortunately, it was in Kassem and in English which enabled me to understand parts of it. Everyone was dressed in beautiful clothes and enthusiastically singing along to the songs. The service was rich in ceremonies and procedures. For instance, the collection of money was done similar to the way that communion is distributed in Canada. However the key difference was that it was accompanied by a song and that many danced to the front of the church, dropped a few coins in a basket and then danced back to their seat. At the end of the mass, the pastor also invited any visitors to come to the front of the church to introduce themselves. Since I was the only white man in the church, it was plain to see I was a visitor. I improvised a short introduction that was translated into Kasem but I began and closed with a Kassem greeting. Overall, the mass was a very moving experience but it was also quite tiring because it was so hot in the church and the entire ceremony took 4.5 hours.
The weekend was a very rich and refreshing experience and I was highly motivated to learn Kasem and to find a permanent place to live.
Sunday, March 28, 2010
Friday, March 26, 2010
Start of Work
After a quick trip to Tamale for an EWB MoFA Team meeting, I returned to Paga the following Monday. The weekend was quite productive from a work perspective albeit a bit of a shock given that I had spent the week with no running water, no electricity and sleeping outside to sleeping in a nice guest house with running water, a fan, light and everything. Before leaving Tamale, I purchased 3 yams for my host mother, Tina, as a gift to thank her for allowing me to stay at her place for the week.
After a very uncomfortable and long tro-tro journey back north from Tamale (I was sitting on a seat where the spring protruded from the cushion and was constantly poking me), I arrived back in Bolga. After having had the village experience of sleeping on a straw mat for a week, I decided to purchase a mattress so as to avoid the sore muscles that sometimes prevented me from getting enough rest.
I then proceeded to find a temporary place to stay in Paga because I ultimately wanted to live in village for the longer term. There were some complications with the living arrangement but somehow it worked out and I managed to get a room in a compound just across the MoFA Office. It was the compound where previous EWB volunteers have lived in the past.
The first week of the office consisted of me introducing myself to the district at the weekly meeting on Wednesday, looking for a place to live with a very friendly Extension Agent, learning how to drive the motorbike and meeting other MoFA Staff members. I spent most of the time in the office working on the computer but I was also fortunate to go into the field with AEAs to visit a field.
The purpose of the field visit was to inspect whether a particular plot of land in a village called Chania was suitable for growing rice in the dry season. MoFA has a project entitled Block Farms whereby they will supply inputs, tractors for ploughing, and combine harvesters to farmers for large-scale farming of an area of around 80 acres. Simply getting to the area was a journey in itself. The place is about 3 km away from Paga. First we went to the chief’s house to obtain permission to visit the area and to inform him about the latest status of the project. This was a chance for me to practice my Kasem greetings. After a brief discussion, we mounted on the motos again to drive to the location. The road became smaller and smaller and the soil more and more sandy which made driving quite challenging. I certainly learned a lot about handling a moto in the sand. After some 5 km driving through fields and small paths, we arrived at the place. The place was actually on the border of Burkina and we could even see some houses in the distance which the local farmer told us were inhabited by Burkinabes. 80 acres is indeed quite a large area and since we arrived there at around 1:00 in the afternoon, the sun was at its peak. Both of these contributed to me being quite tired after the walk around the area. However, I learnt about rice farming, and about some pre-requisites that you need to do large-scale harvesting with a combine harvester. For instance, there were many trees scattered between the fields to provide shade for the farmers during their work. However, when harvesting with a combine harvester, the area should be as flat as possible to avoid damaging the machine. Also, the land is subdivided into many smaller plots that are owned by individual farmers which complicates harvesting everything since it is difficult to determine how much each farmer is entitled to receive. Also, given the poor quality of the road that made it even difficult to reach the location by moto, it seemed that it was virtually impossible to bring inputs, tractors or combine harvesters by the same path. After a closing discussions with the farmer, we returned to the Paga district office.
This was my first week in the district in a nutshell. I was quite tired by the end of the week and looking forward to the weekend.
After a very uncomfortable and long tro-tro journey back north from Tamale (I was sitting on a seat where the spring protruded from the cushion and was constantly poking me), I arrived back in Bolga. After having had the village experience of sleeping on a straw mat for a week, I decided to purchase a mattress so as to avoid the sore muscles that sometimes prevented me from getting enough rest.
I then proceeded to find a temporary place to stay in Paga because I ultimately wanted to live in village for the longer term. There were some complications with the living arrangement but somehow it worked out and I managed to get a room in a compound just across the MoFA Office. It was the compound where previous EWB volunteers have lived in the past.
The first week of the office consisted of me introducing myself to the district at the weekly meeting on Wednesday, looking for a place to live with a very friendly Extension Agent, learning how to drive the motorbike and meeting other MoFA Staff members. I spent most of the time in the office working on the computer but I was also fortunate to go into the field with AEAs to visit a field.
The purpose of the field visit was to inspect whether a particular plot of land in a village called Chania was suitable for growing rice in the dry season. MoFA has a project entitled Block Farms whereby they will supply inputs, tractors for ploughing, and combine harvesters to farmers for large-scale farming of an area of around 80 acres. Simply getting to the area was a journey in itself. The place is about 3 km away from Paga. First we went to the chief’s house to obtain permission to visit the area and to inform him about the latest status of the project. This was a chance for me to practice my Kasem greetings. After a brief discussion, we mounted on the motos again to drive to the location. The road became smaller and smaller and the soil more and more sandy which made driving quite challenging. I certainly learned a lot about handling a moto in the sand. After some 5 km driving through fields and small paths, we arrived at the place. The place was actually on the border of Burkina and we could even see some houses in the distance which the local farmer told us were inhabited by Burkinabes. 80 acres is indeed quite a large area and since we arrived there at around 1:00 in the afternoon, the sun was at its peak. Both of these contributed to me being quite tired after the walk around the area. However, I learnt about rice farming, and about some pre-requisites that you need to do large-scale harvesting with a combine harvester. For instance, there were many trees scattered between the fields to provide shade for the farmers during their work. However, when harvesting with a combine harvester, the area should be as flat as possible to avoid damaging the machine. Also, the land is subdivided into many smaller plots that are owned by individual farmers which complicates harvesting everything since it is difficult to determine how much each farmer is entitled to receive. Also, given the poor quality of the road that made it even difficult to reach the location by moto, it seemed that it was virtually impossible to bring inputs, tractors or combine harvesters by the same path. After a closing discussions with the farmer, we returned to the Paga district office.
This was my first week in the district in a nutshell. I was quite tired by the end of the week and looking forward to the weekend.
Saturday, March 20, 2010
Village Stay – Short Stories
To give you a bit of an overview of my village stay, I have decided to write a few short stories from different moments that I particularly remember and to give you some idea about my thoughts and actions during this time.
Story 1 – Roof Repair
On my first day in the village, I witnessed a few men repairing the roof of the turkey stall. When constructing a roof, there are two options: straw and tin. There is a cost difference between the two with the straw roof being cheaper to construct in the short term but also requiring repairs every two or three years. The roof we were constructing was made of straw and to do it, three men were volunteering their time in what is commonly referred to as communal labour. They did not receive any financial renumeration for the day’s work but they did receive food and drink from my host mother Tina.
Before beginning the roof construction, you need to collect several meters of bark from the Canfef tree (Jude family) that can be used as string to tie everything together. (See Picture 1). This bark has to be kept moist at all times to ensure its flexibility and strength.
You also have to either buy or make two types of straw mats. One type is cross-woven straw and the other type is straw that has been all arranged in the same direction and is then tied together.
To begin roof construction, you first need several strong branches that can be erected in a manner similar to a wigwam and then tied together at the top with the bark rope. Then, you need to make the cross-members. To do this, take pieces of old roof and tie them together with the bark rope to make one long piece of straw rope that you then wind around the wigwam structure. (See Picture 2). Then, you apply the first level of cross-woven straw that you then tie down to the structural elements with the bark rope. Once this is secured, you spread the second type of straw mat over the roof and then tie it down in a similar manner. Once these two mats are secured, add a second mat of the second type for added coverage and then secure the top with some kind of pot or bag so as to prevent water from entering the top of the structure.
This is just one story of my village experience. I will list titles for short story topics that I can write about in future blog posts about this experience. Please write in your comments which story you would be most interested in and then I will publish it in future posts.
Story 2 – Helping around the house (Getting water from the borehole and the hand-dug well, sweeping the compound, preparing lettuce, getting termites for the young turkeys…)
Story 4 – Ghanian Hospitality – The reception of an honoured guest.
Story 5 – When the sun goes down - Living without electricity
Story 6 – Intense Heat – Afternoons in the shade
Story 7 – Funeral Rituals here
Story 1 – Roof Repair
On my first day in the village, I witnessed a few men repairing the roof of the turkey stall. When constructing a roof, there are two options: straw and tin. There is a cost difference between the two with the straw roof being cheaper to construct in the short term but also requiring repairs every two or three years. The roof we were constructing was made of straw and to do it, three men were volunteering their time in what is commonly referred to as communal labour. They did not receive any financial renumeration for the day’s work but they did receive food and drink from my host mother Tina.
Before beginning the roof construction, you need to collect several meters of bark from the Canfef tree (Jude family) that can be used as string to tie everything together. (See Picture 1). This bark has to be kept moist at all times to ensure its flexibility and strength.
You also have to either buy or make two types of straw mats. One type is cross-woven straw and the other type is straw that has been all arranged in the same direction and is then tied together.
To begin roof construction, you first need several strong branches that can be erected in a manner similar to a wigwam and then tied together at the top with the bark rope. Then, you need to make the cross-members. To do this, take pieces of old roof and tie them together with the bark rope to make one long piece of straw rope that you then wind around the wigwam structure. (See Picture 2). Then, you apply the first level of cross-woven straw that you then tie down to the structural elements with the bark rope. Once this is secured, you spread the second type of straw mat over the roof and then tie it down in a similar manner. Once these two mats are secured, add a second mat of the second type for added coverage and then secure the top with some kind of pot or bag so as to prevent water from entering the top of the structure.
This is just one story of my village experience. I will list titles for short story topics that I can write about in future blog posts about this experience. Please write in your comments which story you would be most interested in and then I will publish it in future posts.
Story 2 – Helping around the house (Getting water from the borehole and the hand-dug well, sweeping the compound, preparing lettuce, getting termites for the young turkeys…)
Story 4 – Ghanian Hospitality – The reception of an honoured guest.
Story 5 – When the sun goes down - Living without electricity
Story 6 – Intense Heat – Afternoons in the shade
Story 7 – Funeral Rituals here
Monday, March 15, 2010
Village Stay - The Beginning
On Sunday 14th of March, I travelled north from Tamale to Paga. The ride was quite enjoyable and I had a great conversation about religion and diversity with a Bahai teacher. I met Wayne in Bolgatanga or Bolga for short. Then, we took a taxi to Paga where I would store my things and then meet my host family. After some confusion about my living situation, we finally walked to the market to meet my host mother Tina. She was very open, friendly and welcoming. After declining the offer to drive to the village by motorbike, I started walking to the village with Tina. We had a great conversation while we walked down the dusty road. It was dark by the time we reached the village Sakaa and I was introduced to the village chief in the near complete darkness. After a brief exchange, we continued walking. As the remaining rays of the sun disappeared more and more, the walking became more and more difficult and often, I would trip or stumble along the way because of some unevenness in the path. We arrived at her home at around 7:30 but it was already totally dark. I saw some children in the torchlight but due to the insufficient light and my inability to speak much Kasem, I could not communicate much with them.
Using flashlights, she asked me whether I would like to sleep on the roof, on the floor outside or in my room. I climbed up onto the roof using a tree branch ladder that had several notches in it and decided to sleep on the ground because I would be able to hand a mosquito net there more effectively.
I then went to use the latrine at her house for the first time. Having just used a latrine that was only surrounded by a low wall for privacy and no roof, the small latrine building seemed quite ok. Then, I took my first bath in torchlight and under the open sky. After being refreshed, I enjoyed a delicious meal. Throughout this time, I was a little unsure about the quality of the water because I had not seen where it had come from. Later, I learned that it was clean borehole water and so I relaxed but that evening, I drank only a small sip. Also, since Tina was in the business of selling items like medicine, batteries, rice, sorghum, spirits and cigarettes, many people came by the home that night. Since everything had been new that day, Paga, Sakaa, the family and the compound, I was quite tired when bedtime came around at 9:30. Tina set up my bed with a straw mat, a piece of cloth on top as a mattress sheet, a bundle of clothes as a pillow and a sheet overtop. I crawled in under the mosquito net and enjoyed looking at the stars for a bit before falling into a well-deserved sleep.
Using flashlights, she asked me whether I would like to sleep on the roof, on the floor outside or in my room. I climbed up onto the roof using a tree branch ladder that had several notches in it and decided to sleep on the ground because I would be able to hand a mosquito net there more effectively.
I then went to use the latrine at her house for the first time. Having just used a latrine that was only surrounded by a low wall for privacy and no roof, the small latrine building seemed quite ok. Then, I took my first bath in torchlight and under the open sky. After being refreshed, I enjoyed a delicious meal. Throughout this time, I was a little unsure about the quality of the water because I had not seen where it had come from. Later, I learned that it was clean borehole water and so I relaxed but that evening, I drank only a small sip. Also, since Tina was in the business of selling items like medicine, batteries, rice, sorghum, spirits and cigarettes, many people came by the home that night. Since everything had been new that day, Paga, Sakaa, the family and the compound, I was quite tired when bedtime came around at 9:30. Tina set up my bed with a straw mat, a piece of cloth on top as a mattress sheet, a bundle of clothes as a pillow and a sheet overtop. I crawled in under the mosquito net and enjoyed looking at the stars for a bit before falling into a well-deserved sleep.
Sunday, March 14, 2010
Into the market
On Saturday, I went to the market in Tamale to buy a pair of Jeans and a few T-shirts. I will describe the day quite vividly in order to give you a bit of an idea about realities here. I would get up in the morning, get up from the mattress and crawl out of the mosquito net. I will get ready, and then go out. I was introduced to egg and bread on the first day in Tamale and since then, I have grown quite fond of it along with a drink called ‘Milo’ which is quite sweet but a good alternative to coffee and black tea.
So, as most days, I went to a street vendor just on Gumani Road and will bought 2000 Bread, 2 Eggs and 1 Milo. To explain this apparently high price, even though the currency devaluation from 1 Old Ghana Cedi = 0.01 New Ghana Cedi has happened some years ago now, many people still calculate in old Cedis and so 2000 is actually 0.20 GHC. After paying, I crossed the street and waited for taxi to come by that was going into town. To hail a taxi that you want to share with other people, you simply stretch out your right hand and open and close four fingers several times as if you were waving to someone. The driver will slow down, stretch out his hand out the window and signal and call the number of seats he has free and to know how many are in your party. Once he pulls up, you inquire as to his destination and if it matches where you want to go, then you get in. The price from the Gumani house to the centre of Tamale is between 0.40 and 0.50 GHC.
I exited the cab right in front of the market and entered the hustle and bustle of a busy Saturday market day. Since Tamale is quite a large city, it has a market day on almost every day of the week and since it was 11:00 a.m., everyone was already busy negotiating, talking and shouting. The first time that I came to the market, I remember walking through a narrow alley that was quite dark but still filled with merchants on either side of the alley selling fruits and vegetables. All around me, the space was filled with activity. People pulling and pushing heavily laden carts through narrow passageways, water sellers with water on their heads shouting, “Here is pure water!”, women carrying large loads on their heads who you can admire for their grace with which they balance the load and the strength that it takes to carry it for long periods of time. The paths of the market are also quite uneven which makes walking without stumbling a bit of a challenge in itself. A definite obstacle toward buying things is first, not knowing the approximate price of objects, and second, not knowing whether the object you would like to buy can be negotiated for or not. I approached a pants seller to buy a pair of jeans. After some searching, he had found a pair in my size and I had negotiated a price from 7 Cedis down to 5 Cedis. Then, I looked for shirts. I searched for quite a while and found shirts ranging between 5 and 30 Cedis each. I purchased two shirts for a total of 11 Cedis which I thought was quite a good deal but judging by the somewhat mocking smile of the merchant, his invitation to come back anytime and the comments I overheard after, I paid way too much for them. While browsing for the shirts, I also witnessed a small fight that erupted due to a traffic accident. I did not witness the event itself but just the aftermath. The intensity and energy with which the fight erupted definitely surprised me. I had seen people have quite intense arguments before but then calming down quite quickly after. However, a crowd gathered immediately and separated the two which I thought was quite a positive sign of communal problem solving and resolution.
Then, I sat down a bit to rest in the hot noon sun. I sat at the entrance of the taxi yard and just observed the steady flow of taxis in and out. It was quite interesting to observe the flow of taxis which would occasionally culminate in a massive traffic jams that were resolved in intense yelling. However, they would always dissipate quite quickly and the way would be free for more taxis to enter. I thought, wow, this system is so much more chaotic and less organized than anything you might find in North America or Europe but still it works. People enter and leave the city from the outlying areas, sell and buy goods and then leave. It made me think deeply about applying home country ideas and ideals to Ghana and the balance of accepting vs. challenging the existing structures.
Finally, I hailed a taxi and returned home after a very successful and productive day. Back next week from the village with probably many new experiences.
So, as most days, I went to a street vendor just on Gumani Road and will bought 2000 Bread, 2 Eggs and 1 Milo. To explain this apparently high price, even though the currency devaluation from 1 Old Ghana Cedi = 0.01 New Ghana Cedi has happened some years ago now, many people still calculate in old Cedis and so 2000 is actually 0.20 GHC. After paying, I crossed the street and waited for taxi to come by that was going into town. To hail a taxi that you want to share with other people, you simply stretch out your right hand and open and close four fingers several times as if you were waving to someone. The driver will slow down, stretch out his hand out the window and signal and call the number of seats he has free and to know how many are in your party. Once he pulls up, you inquire as to his destination and if it matches where you want to go, then you get in. The price from the Gumani house to the centre of Tamale is between 0.40 and 0.50 GHC.
I exited the cab right in front of the market and entered the hustle and bustle of a busy Saturday market day. Since Tamale is quite a large city, it has a market day on almost every day of the week and since it was 11:00 a.m., everyone was already busy negotiating, talking and shouting. The first time that I came to the market, I remember walking through a narrow alley that was quite dark but still filled with merchants on either side of the alley selling fruits and vegetables. All around me, the space was filled with activity. People pulling and pushing heavily laden carts through narrow passageways, water sellers with water on their heads shouting, “Here is pure water!”, women carrying large loads on their heads who you can admire for their grace with which they balance the load and the strength that it takes to carry it for long periods of time. The paths of the market are also quite uneven which makes walking without stumbling a bit of a challenge in itself. A definite obstacle toward buying things is first, not knowing the approximate price of objects, and second, not knowing whether the object you would like to buy can be negotiated for or not. I approached a pants seller to buy a pair of jeans. After some searching, he had found a pair in my size and I had negotiated a price from 7 Cedis down to 5 Cedis. Then, I looked for shirts. I searched for quite a while and found shirts ranging between 5 and 30 Cedis each. I purchased two shirts for a total of 11 Cedis which I thought was quite a good deal but judging by the somewhat mocking smile of the merchant, his invitation to come back anytime and the comments I overheard after, I paid way too much for them. While browsing for the shirts, I also witnessed a small fight that erupted due to a traffic accident. I did not witness the event itself but just the aftermath. The intensity and energy with which the fight erupted definitely surprised me. I had seen people have quite intense arguments before but then calming down quite quickly after. However, a crowd gathered immediately and separated the two which I thought was quite a positive sign of communal problem solving and resolution.
Then, I sat down a bit to rest in the hot noon sun. I sat at the entrance of the taxi yard and just observed the steady flow of taxis in and out. It was quite interesting to observe the flow of taxis which would occasionally culminate in a massive traffic jams that were resolved in intense yelling. However, they would always dissipate quite quickly and the way would be free for more taxis to enter. I thought, wow, this system is so much more chaotic and less organized than anything you might find in North America or Europe but still it works. People enter and leave the city from the outlying areas, sell and buy goods and then leave. It made me think deeply about applying home country ideas and ideals to Ghana and the balance of accepting vs. challenging the existing structures.
Finally, I hailed a taxi and returned home after a very successful and productive day. Back next week from the village with probably many new experiences.
Saturday, March 13, 2010
After about a week of in-country-training we were officially ready to begin our stay in Ghana. The week was filled with much learning about EWB’s history in Ghana, the strategy and our own personal role in the team. We also had Moto (Motorbike) riding lessons and spent much time getting used to the intense heat. The transition from Accra had left us enjoying the drier heat in Tamale, yet the intensity was also that much more. We were in the shade for most of the day and enjoying the time in the room under a fan.
On Sunday, I moved from the Guesthouse to the EWB house in Tamale. In hindsight, I now consider the move to be quite beneficial as I was getting closer and closer to Ghanaian realities. However, never having been in a compound, I was a bit shocked by the simple rooms, the somewhat functioning toilet and shower, the goats and chickens and the dark neighbourhood that only had earthen unlit streets. The next day, when I met some neighbours and saw the compound in the daytime, I gradually became used to it and settled in.
I stayed in Tamale for one week to prepare for my placement by doing readings and research that I had not been able to do before my departure from Canada. I also had my first Kasem lesson from a woman at the MoFA office and I went to visit a farmer group with an Extension Agent from Presby Farmer and Child Training.
Throughout the week, I developed relationships with several Ghanaians and really enjoyed this process. Whereas in the beginning of the week, I felt quite unsure of everything, by the end, I was very comfortable living in Tamale. I noticed that throughout this time as I met more and more Ghanaians, I no longer saw the external differences and looked at everyone with different eyes. I met a woman who made Egg and Bread at a stand close to the Catholic Guest House and who talked very passionately about how she wanted to open her own container to sell the clothing she made. I visited a man who sold mobile phones close to the market in Tamale who was very friendly and knew all the other EWB volunteers. Also, while I was in Tamale it rained one evening and as a result all the food eatery places along the road closed quite early. In searching for some food at 9:00 pm, I stumbled upon a man selling egg and bread and after sitting down, I had a great conversation with a group of men the included a student, a development worker, a former business owner and a carpenter. Finally, by coincidence, I met a woman who grew up in Paga and speaks Kasem.
Overall, the week was quite nice and I felt very comfortable living in Ghana after it. I was ready for a village stay in the upcoming week and excited and passionate about the experience.
On Sunday, I moved from the Guesthouse to the EWB house in Tamale. In hindsight, I now consider the move to be quite beneficial as I was getting closer and closer to Ghanaian realities. However, never having been in a compound, I was a bit shocked by the simple rooms, the somewhat functioning toilet and shower, the goats and chickens and the dark neighbourhood that only had earthen unlit streets. The next day, when I met some neighbours and saw the compound in the daytime, I gradually became used to it and settled in.
I stayed in Tamale for one week to prepare for my placement by doing readings and research that I had not been able to do before my departure from Canada. I also had my first Kasem lesson from a woman at the MoFA office and I went to visit a farmer group with an Extension Agent from Presby Farmer and Child Training.
Throughout the week, I developed relationships with several Ghanaians and really enjoyed this process. Whereas in the beginning of the week, I felt quite unsure of everything, by the end, I was very comfortable living in Tamale. I noticed that throughout this time as I met more and more Ghanaians, I no longer saw the external differences and looked at everyone with different eyes. I met a woman who made Egg and Bread at a stand close to the Catholic Guest House and who talked very passionately about how she wanted to open her own container to sell the clothing she made. I visited a man who sold mobile phones close to the market in Tamale who was very friendly and knew all the other EWB volunteers. Also, while I was in Tamale it rained one evening and as a result all the food eatery places along the road closed quite early. In searching for some food at 9:00 pm, I stumbled upon a man selling egg and bread and after sitting down, I had a great conversation with a group of men the included a student, a development worker, a former business owner and a carpenter. Finally, by coincidence, I met a woman who grew up in Paga and speaks Kasem.
Overall, the week was quite nice and I felt very comfortable living in Ghana after it. I was ready for a village stay in the upcoming week and excited and passionate about the experience.
Thursday, March 4, 2010
The Trip North
We woke up early, at 5:00 a.m. to catch our bus North to Tamale. After some ambiguity with how we would actually get to the bus station, we found a member of the family who led us from the house to the nearest road where we could hail a taxi.
In the pitch darkness, I made a very important discovery. In Ghana, the side of the road often ends with a sewage channel that is only covered in certain locations. Not know this fact and not being able to see anything, I took a step back when the taxi was coming and I landed in the gutter. Thankfully, it was not too deep, it was dry and I was not seriously hurt. After this incident, we swiftly moved toward the STC bus station in Accra.
The bus station also held a few surprises as I discovered how large the 10 Cedi note actually is. Many merchants simply refused to accept it when I was buying things for only a few Pesewas? So, I had money but still could not effectively buy things like water, snacks or food without smaller change. While waiting for the bus, I learned that a Chop bar is simply a very basic restaurant, and how to drink water out of a small sealed plastic bag by biting off the corner. I’m still learning how to do it right without splashing myself.
I then got on the bus and was quite impressed high quality of the bus. The two taxis that I had been in were mostly over 10 years old, had varying numbers of dents, working lights, and paint. I doubt that they would have passed in an Auto Inspection but they were still driving. However, contrary to my expectation, the bus had Air conditioning, a TV, cushioned seats and quite a good suspension. The limiting factor now became the quality of the roads on the journey. These were quite good even though there were localized patches where traffic had to slow significantly to avoid bumps, potholes and cracks.
On the journey I also had several ‘Firsts’. I learned how delicious a fresh lemon juice tastes that you squeeze out of a lemon that has a wedge cut out of it. I learned to value the refreshing quality of fan ice and the key steps that you have to go through in order to use the washroom in Ghana. Finally, I watched my first Nigerian movies on the ride and observed the transition from the lush thick green vegetation that stretched for many kilometers while we were in the South but which gradually became more sparse the more we approached Tamale.
We finally arrived in Tamale at around 8:30 without much trouble and checked into the Catholic Guest House with In-Country-Training set to begin the next day.
In the pitch darkness, I made a very important discovery. In Ghana, the side of the road often ends with a sewage channel that is only covered in certain locations. Not know this fact and not being able to see anything, I took a step back when the taxi was coming and I landed in the gutter. Thankfully, it was not too deep, it was dry and I was not seriously hurt. After this incident, we swiftly moved toward the STC bus station in Accra.
The bus station also held a few surprises as I discovered how large the 10 Cedi note actually is. Many merchants simply refused to accept it when I was buying things for only a few Pesewas? So, I had money but still could not effectively buy things like water, snacks or food without smaller change. While waiting for the bus, I learned that a Chop bar is simply a very basic restaurant, and how to drink water out of a small sealed plastic bag by biting off the corner. I’m still learning how to do it right without splashing myself.
I then got on the bus and was quite impressed high quality of the bus. The two taxis that I had been in were mostly over 10 years old, had varying numbers of dents, working lights, and paint. I doubt that they would have passed in an Auto Inspection but they were still driving. However, contrary to my expectation, the bus had Air conditioning, a TV, cushioned seats and quite a good suspension. The limiting factor now became the quality of the roads on the journey. These were quite good even though there were localized patches where traffic had to slow significantly to avoid bumps, potholes and cracks.
On the journey I also had several ‘Firsts’. I learned how delicious a fresh lemon juice tastes that you squeeze out of a lemon that has a wedge cut out of it. I learned to value the refreshing quality of fan ice and the key steps that you have to go through in order to use the washroom in Ghana. Finally, I watched my first Nigerian movies on the ride and observed the transition from the lush thick green vegetation that stretched for many kilometers while we were in the South but which gradually became more sparse the more we approached Tamale.
We finally arrived in Tamale at around 8:30 without much trouble and checked into the Catholic Guest House with In-Country-Training set to begin the next day.
Wednesday, March 3, 2010
Arriving in Ghana
Stepping off the plane, the first sensation was the intense heat and humidity. After only a short relief while we were in the small airport meeting a Ghanian friend, we were back outside and searching for a car to take us to our destination. Immediatley, we were surronded by a group of young Ghanaians who eagerly took our bags and carried them to our friend’s car. Amid the confusion, we discovered that the car did not have enough space to fit all of our luggage plus all five passengers. We began searching for a taxi but as we were five white people, the price for the taxi immediately rose above the normal rate. After some intense negotiations, we were finally in a car and heading to our destination.
Throughout this first experience, I definitely offset my culture shock experience by remembering what life had been like in India. There too, I had arrived at night and I remember the same feelings of apprehension as I travelled through an unknown city, through chaotic traffic, along dark streets that were lit only now and then with a streetlight. When we finally arrived, I was very glad that it was the right place and I was looking forward to a bed.
After entering through the house gates, we saw the front yard of quite a large house. Checking with my friends, I learnt that this was quite a luxurious house for Ghanaian standards. What I remember most is the humid heat that penetrated every room in the house and made me sweat constantly.
After eating my first Jollof rice, yams and beans and drinking pure water, I collapsed on the bed and fell asleep immediately.
Throughout this first experience, I definitely offset my culture shock experience by remembering what life had been like in India. There too, I had arrived at night and I remember the same feelings of apprehension as I travelled through an unknown city, through chaotic traffic, along dark streets that were lit only now and then with a streetlight. When we finally arrived, I was very glad that it was the right place and I was looking forward to a bed.
After entering through the house gates, we saw the front yard of quite a large house. Checking with my friends, I learnt that this was quite a luxurious house for Ghanaian standards. What I remember most is the humid heat that penetrated every room in the house and made me sweat constantly.
After eating my first Jollof rice, yams and beans and drinking pure water, I collapsed on the bed and fell asleep immediately.
Tuesday, March 2, 2010
On the plane ... entering Ghanian Airspace
On the LCD display in front of me, I see a plan icon just entering Ghanaian airspace on its way to Accra and since I am about to begin my stay in Ghana, I would like to share some of my thoughts with you.
Let me start by describing how I am feeling. This is actually a bit difficult because there are so many. I feel excited to discover Ghana, to learn the language, meet the people, make friends, become a change agent and ultimately have an impact on rural farmers through my work. I feel a bit apprehensive because there are so many things I don’t know, so many new things all at the same time one of which is the fact that it will be above 40 degrees when I step out of the airport in a few moments. Right now, I also feel a bit apprehensive about the food, the temperature, fitting in with the people, where I will stay, getting sick, learning to ride a motorbike and not being with my family for one year.
The plane has just dipped its nose down a few degrees to indicate that we are only about 200 km from Accra. I will sign off on this and will report back after a long bus trip north to Tamale tomorrow.
Let me start by describing how I am feeling. This is actually a bit difficult because there are so many. I feel excited to discover Ghana, to learn the language, meet the people, make friends, become a change agent and ultimately have an impact on rural farmers through my work. I feel a bit apprehensive because there are so many things I don’t know, so many new things all at the same time one of which is the fact that it will be above 40 degrees when I step out of the airport in a few moments. Right now, I also feel a bit apprehensive about the food, the temperature, fitting in with the people, where I will stay, getting sick, learning to ride a motorbike and not being with my family for one year.
The plane has just dipped its nose down a few degrees to indicate that we are only about 200 km from Accra. I will sign off on this and will report back after a long bus trip north to Tamale tomorrow.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)